The Jiangnan region — Shanghai, Hangzhou, Suzhou and the watery lands south of the Yangtze — is known for delicate, slightly sweet dishes that prize freshness and presentation.
What to order
- Xiaolongbao (小笼包) — soup dumplings: pierce the skin, sip the broth, then eat. A Shanghai icon.
- Red-braised pork (红烧肉) — glossy, melt-in-the-mouth belly in soy and sugar.
- Shengjianbao — pan-fried pork buns with crispy bottoms.
- West Lake fish in vinegar — a delicate Hangzhou classic.
- Drunken chicken and hairy crab (autumn) for the adventurous.
Where to eat it
Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou are the heartland — pair it with the Jiangnan water towns route.
The most authentic places (confirm branches/booking before you go):
- Shanghai — benbang (本帮菜): for classic, sweet-savoury Shanghai home cooking like red-braised pork, the names locals love are Lao Xing Xian (老兴鲜), Maolong (茂隆餐厅) and Lanxin (兰心餐厅), alongside the time-honoured Shanghai Old Restaurant (上海老饭店) and Lao Zheng Xing (老正兴).
- Shanghai — Jia Jia Tang Bao (佳家汤包): a local institution for xiaolongbao (more in my favourite dishes).
- Hangzhou — Louwailou (楼外楼): by West Lake since 1848, the classic address for West Lake fish in vinegar and Longjing-shrimp; for a more contemporary take on Hangzhou cuisine, try Nanlu Zheli (南麓·浙里).
- Suzhou — Songhelou (松鹤楼): a centuries-old Suzhou landmark for refined Jiangnan classics.
- Yangzhou — Fuchun Teahouse (富春茶社): the famous home of Huaiyang morning tea and steamed buns.
Tips
- Soup dumplings are hot inside — let them cool a moment.
- The gentle sweetness is intentional, not a mistake.
- Hairy crab is a seasonal autumn delicacy worth timing a trip around.
